Patek Philippe unveils eleven unique new alliances of technical prowess and style
On the occasion of the Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 Salon, Patek Philippe is innovating in technical terms by endowing its regular collection with the first World Time watch to feature a date display synchronized with local time. The manufacturer also stands out by the elegance of the new models, as illustrated by the grand return of the chain-style bracelet in the Golden Ellipse line. In addition, the vast array of Patek Philippe collections has seen subtle new interpretations in the areas of travel watches, calendar watches and elegantly sporty models, as well as in the Twenty~4 ladies’ collection, which this year celebrates its 25th anniversary.
Furthermore, the manufacturer is announcing two important developments in the Directives of the Patek Philippe Seal, together with an extension of the international warranty pertaining to new watches from two years to five years.
Lover of Beauty
Antoine Norbert de Patek, creative force and lover of beauty. Jean Adrien Philippe, horological genius. From the time of its foundation in 1839, the Genevan manufacture has devoted itself to creating timepieces whose aesthetic refinement reflects their mechanical perfection. Since 1932, the Stern family has perpetuated this “tradition of innovation”, embodied today in more than one hundred patents and a range of 56 movements designed and built entirely in the manufacturer’s own workshops.
Patek Philippe’s timeless designs have inspired a plethora of iconic timepieces across all segments. Ranging from the Grand Complications and jewellery watches to the classically chic and elegantly sporty, the brand has always been at the forefront of luxury watchmaking. The splendid array of new introductions presented in the spring of 2024 maintains the creative momentum.
Furthermore, a major technical advance has been made in watches with multiple time zones. Additionally, the arrival of a new, exclusive chain-style bracelet in the Golden Ellipse collection is sure to delight collectors. Moreover, the collection boasts nine fresh interpretations of flagship models, with a wide variety of functions and external decors to choose from.
The new generation of the World Time
Launched as a limited edition at the Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition “Watch Art” Tokyo 2023, Reference 5330 is now entering the manufacturer’s regular collection. The patented world first of this new-generation World Time distinguishes it with a date display synchronized with local time. To offer this useful and user-friendly function, Patek Philippe developed a new movement, the self-winding calibre 240 HU C, featuring an innovative differential system indicating the date on the periphery of the dial by means of a centre hand in transparent glass with a red hammer-head-style tip. The new World Time Reference 5330G-001 in white gold has a dial-in blue-grey opaline, and its centre is adorned with a “carbon” motif.
A new chain-style bracelet for the legendary Golden Ellipse
Instantly recognizable by the shape of its case, the Golden Ellipse, launched in 1968, has made its mark as a style icon in the Patek Philippe collections. Up until the early 1980s, this model proposed, alongside the leather straps, a choice of chain bracelets or link bracelets in precious metals. Patek Philippe is now reviving that tradition by unveiling the new Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001 on an elegant chain-style bracelet in rose gold that follows the contours of the wrist and offers superb comfort while complementing the finesse of the case.
The product of 15 years of development, this new bracelet, secured by an engraved clasp with three adjustment notches (and remarkably easy to shorten or lengthen), combines modern, patented construction –making it possible to recreate the style of the classic chain bracelets –with manual assembly and finishing, perpetuating the skills of the artisan chain-makers. This new chain-style bracelet is launched as an exclusive feature of the Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001. The dial presents an ebony-black sunburst on which slender applied hour markers and hands, all in rose gold, stand out clearly. With its calibre 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement, this timepiece also has the distinction of being the slimmest watch in the Patek Philippe regular collection.
Refined variations on the travel watches
Since dividing the globe into 24 time zones at the end of the nineteenth century, Patek Philippe has created models that enable the traveller to juggle all the planet’s different times, accompanying the rapid growth in transcontinental travel. The 1930s saw the arrival of the famous World Time watch, now equipped with a date display synchronized with local time. At the end of the 1950s, the Travel Time system of dual time zones made its debut. It has since become available in a wide variety of watches in very different styles. Today three new versions are enriching the range.
The very essence of the travel watch with its sporty, elegant Pilot style, the Alarm Travel Time (2019) claims the spotlight in a new version with a touch of two-tone: a case in rose gold and the tubes of the four pushers in white gold. This Alarm Travel Time Reference 5520RG-001 also stands out by its two-tone dial: grey sunburst and charcoal grey, and applied Arabic numerals and sword-shaped hands in charcoal-grey white gold with a luminescent coating. Powered by the calibre AL 30-660 S C FUS self-winding movement, leading to four patent applications for the alarm, this Grand Complication unites the exclusive Travel Time system for the display of a second-time zone with a 24-hour alarm mechanism with a hammer striking on a classic gong. It joins its predecessor in the collection: Reference 5520P-001 in platinum with an ebony-black sunburst dial.
White Gold and Simplified Rose Gold
After steel and rose gold, the Aquanaut Travel Time, with a self-winding movement, now presents the first version in white gold, set off by a dial in blue-grey opaline and a matching integrated strap in a composite material. The harmonious colour scheme accentuates the watch’s modern, casual chic. The calibre 26-330 S C FUS self-winding movement equips the new Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5164G-001 with a system for displaying a second time zone.
This system combines excellent legibility with ease of operation, making it a distinctive feature of the watch. Its owner has only to press on one of the two pushers set into the left flank of the case to advance or move back the local-hour hand (the solid hand) in one-hour steps, without any effect on the watch’s rate accuracy. The date indication by a hand on the subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock is coupled with the local time.
In 2021, Patek Philippe welcomed into its Aquanaut range a travel watch equipped with a new quartz movement incorporating the Travel Time function, combined with a practical, discreet setting system using the crown. This timepiece made its debut in a rose-gold case with a diamond-set bezel and a white dial and strap. The manufacture has now brought out a new version in rose gold without diamonds. This Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5269R-001 also attracts the eye with its blue-grey opaline dial embossed with the Aquanaut motif and its integrated strap in a matching composite material, the patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. Contrasting polished and satin-brushed finishes accentuate the lines of the case, which measures 38.8 mm in diameter.
New faces among the calendar watches
Whether one considers the precious perpetual calendars—classic Grand Complications par excellence—or the ingenious Annual Calendar, which the manufacturer patented in 1996, Patek Philippe offers a wide range of calendar watches distinguished by their exterior features and particular display modes. And now, the range has become even more extensive.
In 2021, Patek Philippe unveiled a new perpetual calendar with day, date and month indications in one large aperture at the 12 o’clock position. The company launched this timepiece in a platinum case that framed a blue dial with a black gradation to the periphery, equipped with its distinctive patented display mode. The manufacturer is now revisiting this platinum model, endowing it with a rose-gilt opaline dial of vintage inspiration presenting facetted baton-style applied hour markers and facetted baton-style hands, all in charcoal-grey white gold. The calibre 31-260 PS QL ultra-thin self-winding movement is notable for its additional module, awarded three patents, and its mini-rotor in platinum, increasing the winding power. The new in-line perpetual calendar Reference 5236P-010 joins the platinum version, distinguished by its blue dial with a black-gradient rim, in the regular collection.
Officer’s Calendar
The “Officer’s”-style perpetual calendars with a retrograde date hand, featuring a sapphire-crystal back protected by a hinged dust cover and straight lugs, are among the most sought-after models by devotees of rare timepieces. Enthusiasts particularly covet the fully hand-engraved case and dial centre, as seen in the 2016 launch of Reference 5160/500G-001 in white gold. Patek Philippe has now reinterpreted this exceptional model in rose gold with a silvery opaline gold dial presenting applied Breguet numerals in blackened white gold and pear-shaped hands in black-oxidized yellow gold. Equipped with the calibre 26-330 S QR self-winding movement, this new Rare Handcrafts Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Reference 5160/500R-001 replaces the previous version in white gold.
With its double day/month aperture at 12 o’clock and date aperture at 6 o’clock, and its subsidiary 24-hour dial incorporating a moon-phase display, the men’s Annual Calendar Reference 5396, launched in 2006, has established itself as a firm favourite. Patek Philippe 2024 is now bringing out a new version in white gold featuring a blue sunburst dial with a black gradient at the rim lit discreetly by the radiance of twelve baguette-cut diamond hour markers (0.26 ct).
This elegant contrast plays up the extreme restraint and legibility of the dial design, with its facetted dauphine-style hands in white gold and slender sweep seconds hand. An alligator leather strap in shiny navy blue echoes the dial colour. It is secured by a fold-over clasp in white gold. This new Annual Calendar Reference 5396G-017 houses the caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H self-winding movement.
New takes on timeless elegance
Patek Philippe now offers a regular collection of some 150 different references, produced in small series ranging from about ten pieces to several hundred. Every year, the goal is to ensure the coherent and balanced evolution of this vast range of timepieces in all market segments. In 2024, therefore, the manufacturer is celebrating other models in the collection, brought into the spotlight by new dial designs, new case materials, new combinations of colours and new settings of precious gems.
Launched in 1999 in a steel case set with diamonds, the Twenty~4 – the first Patek Philippe collection dedicated entirely to women –made its mark as a classic example of timeless elegance suited to every occasion. In 2018, this line, built initially around the “manchette” (or “cuff-style”) model with a quartz movement, enriched its offer with a new Twenty~4 Automatic in a round case. To celebrate 25 years of feminine seduction and success, Patek Philippe is now bringing out a new version of the “manchette” model in rose gold.
The watchmakers embossed a motif of concentric waves on the extremely refined dial of the Twenty~4 Reference 4910/1201R-010. They then coated it with several dozen fine layers of translucent lacquer, tinting the first layers purple and the later layers colourless. This created delicate plays of light and depth on the dial.
New Nautilus Flyback Chronograph
The Nautilus self-winding flyback chronograph Reference 5980, launched in 2006, has been available in rose gold or two-tone steel and rose gold since 2010. Patek Philippe now revisits this elegantly sporty model in a new version in white gold with a blue-grey opaline dial. The rounded baton-style hands and baton-style applied hour markers stand out clearly in white gold with a white luminescent coating.
The dial’s refined colour continues through the two straps delivered with the watch: one in blue-grey calfskin, its embossed “denim” motif edged with contrasting white hand-stitching; the other is a composite material presenting a fabric motif in blue-grey with contrasting white stitching. Endowed with a slightly enlarged dial opening, this new Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Reference 5980/60G-001 houses a calibre CH 28-520 C self-winding movement grouping the chronograph indications in one large mono-counter at 6 o’clock.
After the launch of an Annual Calendar in the Aquanaut collection in March 2023 and a Haute Joaillerie minute repeater in November 2023, Patek Philippe continues to enrich the Aquanaut line with a new Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie Reference 5268/461G-001 in white gold adorned with diamonds and blue sapphires, showcasing the “snow” and “baguette” settings.
A chequered setting of gems on the dial recalls the Aquanaut collection’s emblematic motif. On the rounded octagonal bezel, baguette-cut sapphires form a subtle gradation from light blue to dark blue. This delicate harmony of nuances continues through to the integrated composite strap in a new shade of dark blue. The calibre 26-330 S self-winding movement powers this watch, and you can admire it through the sapphire-crystal back.
A rich collection of rare handcrafts
This year, as in previous years, Patek Philippe 2024 is also unveiling a rich collection of one-of-a-kind pieces and limited editions (dome clocks, table clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches) celebrating the most refined of the rare handcrafts, such as miniature paintings on enamel, Grand Feu cloisonné enamel, hand engraving and wood marquetry. The “Rare Handcrafts 2024” exhibition, bringing together these 82 creations, will be open to the public from April 13 to 27, 2024, in the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva at 41 rue du Rhône every day except Sunday, from 11.00 to 18.00 (last entry at 17.00). Visitors are invited to register online before on the site patek.com.
The “Rare Handcrafts 2024” exhibition will then be presented from 7 to 16 June in the Patek Philippe Salons in Bond Street, London. This will be a grand premiere for the emblematic premises, which have just been renovated, and a unique opportunity for visitors to admire the entirety of these outstanding creations before they rejoin private collections all over the world.
Two major evolutions for the Patek Philippe Seal
The aim of the Patek Philippe Seal, introduced in 2009, was to establish a new standard of quality for mechanical watches while clearly describing what constitutes the essence and distinctiveness of Patek Philippe quality. The Stern family conceived The Seal as an all-embracing quality label that would continue to evolve, reflecting the innovations and technical advances brought into play by the manufacturer. With that objective in mind Patek Philippe set down in the Patek Philippe Seal two significant evolutions.
Strengthened criteria governing rate accuracy
Patek Philippe checks the rate accuracy of its watches at several stages in the manufacturing process, starting with uncased movements and then moving on to finished watches. Since 2009, the final rate-accuracy measurement, performed on a kinetic simulator, must comply with the following precision standards: within the range of -3 and +2 seconds per 24 hours for calibres with diameters of 20 mm or more; within the range of -5 and +4 seconds per 24 hours for calibres with diameters of less than 20 mm, and within the range of -1 and +2 seconds per 24 hours for watches with a tourbillon (with, in addition for this last group, the greatest deviation between the average rate of the watch in all six measuring positions and the rate in each position must not exceed 4 seconds per 24 hours).
Henceforth, all watches equipped with a Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar® or a traditional Breguet balance spring must, therefore, comply with a tight tolerance range of -1 and +2 seconds per 24 hours –an advance made possible by the perfectly concentric development of the Spiromax® balance spring and the progress in precision timing achieved by Patek Philippe. The manufacturers issue an individually rated certificate for watches with a tourbillon that must comply with the same tight tolerance range. These watches remain subject to the same stipulations regarding rate accuracy in six measuring positions.
Unified criteria for water-resistance
To further ensure the homogeneity and clarity of the information provided to clients, Patek Philippe has decided to introduce a new unified standard of water-resistance set at 30 meters for all watches certified as water-resistant –having been tested in air and underwater by immersion at an overpressure of 3 bars (corresponding to a depth of 30 m). This measure makes it possible to guarantee the same performance level across all the models concerned and to provide perfectly comprehensible information as to the day-to-day activities in which clients can engage while wearing their watch: washing their hands, showering, bathing, swimming and other aquatic activities, including diving to a depth of 30 m – which corresponds in large measure to actual utilization.
An international 5-year warranty for new watches
The Watches and Wonders Salon 2024 is also the occasion for Patek Philippe 2024 to announce an evolution with regard to the international warranty. For all new Patek Philippe 2024 watches sold as of May 1 2024, the duration of this warranty increases from two years to five years, counting from the date of purchase. In addition to this new advantage for the customer, it is important to remember that the Directives of the Patek Philippe Seal already contain a pledge by the International Customer Service network to service, repair or restore every watch produced by the manufacturer since its foundation in 1839. In sum, everything is in place to ensure the long-term reliability of these timepieces, designed and built to be handed down to future generations.
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