Louis Vuitton’s Deep Time Fine Jewellery Collection Unveiled
Louis Vuitton’s Deep Time enters its second Chapter, amplifying this rich tale of geological legacy, transformational beauty and the interconnectedness of life. Francesca Amfitheatrof, Artistic Director for Watches and Jewelry, designed the fifth High Jewelry collection, consisting of 50 new one-of-a-kind pieces set across ten themes. The collection features new interpretations and complementary designs that narrate through the most extraordinary gemstones.
With this second Chapter of Deep Time, we continue the story of this most beautiful, poetic collection that symbolises a vast and incredible storyline.
Francesca Amfitheatrof
Louis Vuitton’s Deep Time voyage starts with geology and takes us to a time when two supercontinents, Gondwana and Laurasia, inhabited our planet. An Amfitheatrof signature announces the latter with stunning yellow diamonds and contrasting metals. Seismic, apocalyptic evolutions transform the planet, inspiring Drift and a new dawn of life, which brings forth the multiplication of cells behind the sinuous DNA-like jewels of Myriad. Louis Vuitton’s Deep Time introduces a new theme called Symbiosis, which draws inspiration from the first land-bound ecosystems of our planet, namely fungi and mycelium. Delicate, sumptuous jewels come to life in beautiful and feminine pastel pink and purple spinels.
Life evolves from these symbiotic patterns towards Fossils, which flourishes into Plants. Louis Vuitton’s Deep Time collection features a spectacular transformable necklace set with leaves crafted from over 400 custom-cut emeralds and diamonds, showcasing the brand’s unparalleled jewellery-making savoir-faire. The collection showcases the Umba sapphire, which is renowned for its unique pink and orange tones. Modern, graphic compositions pair the sapphire with pink gold under the new theme of Skin. The suite creates a setting for Bones, Seeds, and Flower, which embodies the sophistication and refinement of Deep Time’s final chapter.
Laurasia
The two supercontinents of Gondwana and Laurasia mark our planet’s evolutionary origins. Meanwhile, Laurasia is now celebrating yellow diamonds and a masterful blend of platinum, yellow, and pink gold. Furthermore, just as Gondwana depicts the Earth’s circular movement in a powerful and graphic, high-collar necklace, an Amfitheatrof signature, Laurasia features a seven-row masterpiece necklace additionally punctuated by the Maison’s signature V motif. Consequently, this valuable jewel of the second Chapter required 2,465 hours to create, making it the most precious of them all.
An exceptional 5.02-carat emerald-cut yellow diamond is the centrepiece stone, complemented by 34 emerald-cut diamonds—its array subtly reminiscent of the Maison’s Damier motif—as 3.11-carat LV Monogram Flower cut diamonds and over 270 custom-cut diamonds further galvanize the design. An exquisite ring with a 3.02-carat yellow diamond is another master stone of the collection, while a striking triangle-shaped step-cut diamond tops a secret watch, a rare gem in Louis Vuitton High Jewelry.
Drift
The Earth, forged by the power of seismic and meteorological events, settles into a new geological age, ushering in a vibrant dawn of life. Celebrate this all-powerful sun’s radiance with elegant designs that embrace strong cut-out V motifs and shimmering golden yellow sapphires, infused with energizing and invigorating beauty.
Perfect for everyday adornment, a single-strand necklace showcases a magnificent 30.47-carat octagonal step-cut sapphire, its brilliance gleaming amidst the modern geometric motifs. Echoing this captivating design, a matching classic white gold bracelet features graphic V’s, each graced with an octagonal 17.22-carat yellow sapphire from Sri Lanka, completing the set with mesmerizing harmony.
Myriad
Myriad, a mesmerizing embodiment of perpetual movement, showcases futuristic, hypnotic jewels that draw inspiration from the sinuous curves of DNA and the iconic double-helix form. Woven into this design are subtle nods to the Maison’s key codes, creating a truly unique and cohesive aesthetic. Echoing Chapter I’s brilliant white gold, the suite features a supple necklace and matching cuff, each meticulously crafted from individual bejewelled nails that culminate in a captivating spiralling wave. This sensual movement ultimately curves into a subtle V shape, adding a touch of timeless elegance to the overall design.
A bejewelled rope that entwines and cinches both pieces adds a feminine and fluid look. The rope also reminds us of the sturdy ropes that were historically used to transport the Maison’s trunks. Luminous and graceful, the suite also features a ring and several pairs of earrings, each set with LV Monogram Star cut diamonds nestled in a woven mesh of diamonds.
Symbiosis
A new theme in this epic voyage, Symbiosis marks the emergence of early life forms on land and the creation of our first organic ecosystems. Amfitheatrof drew inspiration from the intricate forms of fungi and mycelium, which enthralled her with their hidden connections and coordinated symbiosis. Spinels are at the heart of this theme, in ultra-feminine hues of pink and purple but also pastel blue, the stones hailing from Vietnam and Tanzania. Clusters of spinels, cut in various shapes and set at different heights, create a stunning multi-strand necklace that mimics nature’s marvels, providing intrigue and volume.
Bombé pave diamonds topped by alternating LV Monogram Star cut diamonds further enrich the composition and proportions. The necklace and accompanying organic earrings and rings embody Symbiosis’s organic spirit and essence of life through their figurative design. Crafting each piece required extreme attention to detail and a total of 1,381 hours of work. The artisans even delicately crafted the inside of the jewel in the mushroom motif, which only the wearer can see. Additionally, the organic and fluid earrings and rings complete the symbiosis by clustering spinels, diamonds, and LV Monogram Star cut diamonds, creating a fantasy of light and harmonious beauty.
Fossils
Louis Vuitton’s Deep Time theme of interconnectedness continues with Fossils, a suite of jewels that Amfitheatrof describes as “treasures of time and place, they’re an incredible way to map our planet’s geological changes.” In Chapter I, a spectacular three-strand necklace features a medley of tiny details
and meticulous craftsmanship, including different types of stone settings and metal finishes, coupled with a mix of textures ranging from diamond-studded trellis and honeycomb motifs to the Maison’s iconic Damier pattern in white gold and diamonds.
These minute details are embraced again in Chapter II, in more minimalist and classic creations. A single-strand necklace and matching bracelet, set with a 5.18-carat and 4.03-carat royal blue sapphire respectively, exude signature design codes like bi-color yellow and white gold. Meanwhile, the jeweller sets an impressive 10.56-carat royal blue sapphire on a bracelet, perfectly designing it to fit between two strands – one in the Damier pattern and the other in a trellis.
Plants
Deep Time dives into the vibrant realm of Nature with Plants, taking a more literal interpretation of verdant flora and fauna in Chapter II. Here, a resplendent necklace crafted from platinum and yellow gold brings nature’s lush foliage to life. Imagine a vine that gracefully winds around your neck, emulating a sumptuous rolled scarf before adorning you with three spectacular leaves. But the magic doesn’t stop there! You can detach two of these leaves, transforming them into elegant brooches for added versatility. Each leaf radiates with a vitality that shines through, enhanced by the sparkling V motif set with diamonds. Prepare to be dazzled by the necklace’s magnificent display: 302 custom-cut diamonds and 132 custom-cut Zambian emeralds boasting a rare, captivating blue hue. This jewel is a true testament to the beauty and wonder of the natural world.
The jeweller set a matching ring with a 2.29-carat Zambian emerald that has an octagonal, step-cut shape and flanked it with two pear-cut diamonds. They also created a more everyday necklace that features a single-leaf set off-centre, surrounded by 44 custom-cut rubies and a 5.57-carat emerald.
Skin
Life flourishes and breaks new ground, with Skin exploring the unique connections that expand into life patterns, creating a woven geometry of the physical and natural world. Ultra-modern and graphic, it recalls the skin of a snake but also the Maison’s Damier pattern. Skin is an ode to the Umba sapphire, which hails from Tanzania’s great Umba River and gives the stones their unique orange and pink colours.
In total, the suite features nearly 300 Umba sapphires, all of which have been individually custom-cut
as the layouts and designs dictate – from square and lozenges to baguette shapes. Amfitheatrof dedicated a full High Jewelry theme to the metal, pink gold, to further enhance the warm, golden tones of the Umba sapphires. Their Lego-like, checkerboard design further enhances the suite’s unique color scheme. Bombé volumes and encasements embrace the body in a necklace and matching bracelet, while a standout ring and pair of delicate and refined earcuffs complement the look.
Bones
Exalting both structure and movement, Bones is Deep Time’s homage to the architecture of humanity and highlights geology’s link to life and form. Chapter I’s Bones necklace was the most complex necklace ever made in Louis Vuitton’s history. It featured an intricate mesh of diamonds in various geometric cuts, set with opal, Paraiba tourmaline, and tanzanites. The theme of complexity in jewellery design is echoed in Chapter II, embodied by an exquisite choker-style necklace. This necklace features a layout of diamonds in alternating squares, rectangles, and heights, culminating in an LV Monogram Star cut diamond and an enchanting 16.92-carat Australian opal. While delicate and feminine, the jewel is refined in its movement and visual energy.
A second necklace is a graphic construction centred on an LV Monogram Star cut diamond and further fringed with around 100 custom-cut diamonds. The brilliant blend of white gold and custom-cut diamonds continues in a set of rings and a pair of standout, double-hoop ear cuffs, while a 3.84-carat oval fancy-cut Paraiba tourmaline tops a two-strand ring of over 240 diamonds.
Seeds
Although Seeds symbolize the treasures of birth, Chapter II welcomes magnificent pearls, heralding new design territory and exploration. Evolving naturally from living organisms, pearls aptly channel Deep Time’s celebration of life, metamorphosis, and transformational beauty. Therefore, pearls mark a significant shift in the narrative, paving the way for new discoveries and exciting possibilities.
An elegant double-strand necklace pairs 43 luminous grey Tahitian pearls with a white gold band of nearly 1,200 diamonds. The generous, tubular form punctuates several themes in Deep Time, while its distinct pattern of cut-out kite motifs echoes a signature design code of the Maison. Graceful and feminine but strikingly graphic and modern, the necklace matches a bracelet that links 32 Tahitian pearls with over a thousand diamonds. Rounded, white gold tubes also entwine pairs of beautiful golden pearls in a set of earrings.
Flower
The first Chapter of Deep Time culminated in a bursting and golden, fuchsia bloom, and the same Flower theme is the magnificent conclusion to Deep Time’s epic tale. Exclusively set in white gold and white diamonds, Flower is a brilliant tribute to the Louis Vuitton Monogram, where the star-cut diamond is the budding heart of an intricate layout of sophisticated petals, each one individually crafted from baguette and round brilliant diamonds to fit the petals’ curved shape and reflect maximum light.
The centerpiece necklace suspends a flower medallion from a splendid pave chain, the jewel set with over 1,300 diamonds including 90 custom-cut stones. Elegant and timeless, the suite also features a matching ring and pair of earrings, all of which perfectly channel the refinement and sophistication that personifies this final Chapter of Deep Time.
“At Louis Vuitton, we are, as ever adventurers, travelling to extraordinary, unexpected places,” says Amfitheatrof. Chapter II is the epilogue of Deep Time, this immense and incredible voyage through time and space, this story of exceptional gemstones that propel us deep into the past as Louis Vuitton’s strong and singular design codes launch us forward towards the future.
Related Posts
